Often one finds oneself in the position of planning kitchen furniture after the kitchen has already been built and the walls have been constructed in a hapdash way, with drains and electric sockets that do not follow a logical kitchen project. The inevitable consequence is that the kitchen furniture has to be adapted to the architecture which often calls for costly custom-sized units.The correct method is to plan the kitchen furniture first by defining the position of each element and the exact size of the modules.

For a corner kitchen, first of all the perfect perpendicularity of the two adjacent walls must be checked, and these must be measured at a height of 90cm, to avoid major problems during assembly.

When planning kitchen furniture it is necessary to consider a tolerance of +1cm for possible imperfections in the straightness of the walls, and +1cm thickness for possible wall claddings.

If you want to add a free-standing fridge with a water and ice dispenser it is necessary to plan a space sufficient for the convex door to open properly, as well as for the socket and the water supply/drain tap to be located near the appliance.

Another very impotant element to consider is the size of the side panel against a door: it is calculated by adding +2cm to the depth of the kitchen up to the door frame.

To install a worktop under the window, it is necessary to calculate the right height of the window sill and the position of the tap.

If the hood is wall-hung, it is advisable to make a fumes outlet hole on the same wall, taking into account that its position will vary depending on the type of hood.

On either side of tower units a plasterboard wall creates an alcove-fitted effect. This must be made-to-measure after the tower units have been installed.